As the central hub for most tourists, Santa Cruz in the Galápagos holds a special place in the hearts of travelers seeking both excitement and relaxation. Whether you arrive on a cruise or stay for a few days (or longer!) on the island, Santa Cruz serves as a captivating base for exploration. Its main port town, Puerto Ayora, is filled with charming boutiques, dining options, lively social scene, and breathtaking oceanfront vistas overlooking Academy Bay.
Beyond the town, the island reveals a tapestry of natural wonders, that appeal to both locals and visitors. You’ll see windswept beaches, reserves where giant tortoises roam freely, volcanic craters, and hidden swimming holes where you can leap from cliffs into turquoise waters. With its diverse array of attractions, Santa Cruz Island in the Galápagos offers something extraordinary for everyone.
Table of Contents
History
Santa Cruz, the second largest island in the Galápagos archipelago, holds a fascinating history that mixes natural wonders and human settlement. Despite the absence of volcanic activity, the island’s past is marked by significant developments and changes.
The island’s name, Santa Cruz, derives from the Spanish term for “Holy Cross”, reflecting the influence of early Spanish explorers in the region. This island has a rich history of human habitation and agriculture, resulting in a landscape permanently altered by invasive species.
In the 20th century, Santa Cruz experienced a wave of human settlement as migrants from the U.S. and Europe arrived between the two World Wars. The U.S. even built a naval base on Baltra island during WWII, now known as Seymour Airport of Santa Cruz Island. Drawn by the island’s diverse geology, wildlife, and vegetation, the number of settlers continued to grow following the end of the war. The agricultural practices of the settlers included cattle farming and the cultivation of various crops like avocados, coffee, sugarcane, bananas, oranges, and lemons, which shaped the island’s economy and landscape.
Today, Santa Cruz in the Galápagos serves as the primary tourism hub for the Islands. Its close proximity to the Baltra airport in the north makes it easily accessible to visitors. What sets Santa Cruz apart is that it’s the only island in the Galápagos where tourists can readily explore the island’s interior and higher elevations. The longest paved road in the Galápagos runs from the north to the south of Santa Cruz, connecting the airport ferry at Itabaca Canal to Puerto Ayora, the largest city on the island. This strategic location and well-developed infrastructure have made Santa Cruz the perfect base for exploring the Galápagos Islands.
Getting There
Getting to Santa Cruz in the Galápagos is pretty straight forward. When you fly into Santa Cruz, you will land at Seymour Airport on Baltra Island, which is the main airport serving the Galápagos. You can then easily reach Santa Cruz with a short ferry ride across the Itabaca Channel. Once you arrive on Santa Cruz Island, a 25 mile road that stretches across the highlands will lead you directly to Puerto Ayora, the island’s bustling and vibrant town situated on the opposite coast. There are taxi trucks that frequent the port that will take you to and from the main town.
As of 2023, there are no international flights that will take you to the Galápagos, you must fly from either Quito or Guayaquil in mainland Ecuador to Santa Cruz or San Cristóbal Island. If you’re interested in more in depth information on getting to Santa Cruz (and other islands in the Galápagos) including tips and necessary documentation you will need, check out my detailed guide here (skip to the “Getting There” section).
Where to Stay
Puerto Ayora
Puerto Ayora is the main town of Santa Cruz and where a majority of tourists stay. Of all the towns in the Galápagos, Puerto Ayora is the most populated and has the largest selection of bars, restaurants, shops, accommodations and more. The town is a bustling hub, offering numerous day tours that will allow you to tailor your Galápagos experience according to your preferences. From day-trips to various islands to activities such as kayaking, tours of the highlands, hiking, diving, mountain biking, and horseback riding, Puerto Ayora offers tons of opportunities for adventure.
Also, Puerto Ayora is home to the esteemed Galápagos National Park headquarters and the renowned Charles Darwin Research Station. These institutions contribute to the preservation of the Galápagos’ unique ecosystem and will offer you valuable insights into the islands’ extraordinary flora and fauna.
Bellavista
Located about 4 miles inland from Puerto Ayora, the village of Bellavista holds a significant place on Santa Cruz Island. Originally established as a farming center, Bellavista has evolved into a thriving community and is now the island’s second-largest town. The village has witnessed a housing boom, attracting residents who work in Puerto Ayora, adding to its growth and vibrancy. Bellavista serves as a starting point for exhilarating hikes or horse rides to Media Luna and Cerro Crocker (read more about them below).
When you visit Bellavista, you have the opportunity to indulge in delicious meals at the farm restaurants while enjoying in the tranquil countryside ambiance. Some of these farms offer unique experiences that allow you to venture underground into lava tubes. Exploring these fascinating geological formations unveils the island’s volcanic history and provides a glimpse into the natural wonders hidden beneath the surface. You can also stay at one of the hotels or ecolodges in the town. These accommodations are a bit more affordable than some of the ones you’ll find in Puerto Ayora.
Santa Rosa
Santa Rosa is a smaller yet vibrant community with a strong agricultural presence. This town serves as the gateway to some really cool adventures, starting with hikes to the renowned Tortoise Reserve, where you can choose between La Caseta and El Chato entrances. The winding road that leads to Salasaca (an Andean indigenous community) also begins in Santa Rosa.
Within the vicinity of Santa Rosa and neighboring Bellavista, various farms offer dining experiences, where you can enjoy a meal next to the picturesque countryside. These farms also provide a unique opportunity to explore the underground world of lava tubes. These eerie formations, created by the solidification of surface lava while hot lava continued to flow underneath. Note that access to most lava tubes is on private land, with a small entry fee.
What Species Can You See Here
The incredible thing about the Galápagos Islands is that no matter what island you visit, you’ll be surrounded by some incredible wildlife. And Santa Cruz in the Galápagos is no different. Expect to see sea lions, seals, giant tortoises, blue-footed, red-footed and Nazca boobies, brown pelicans, flamingos, land and marine iguanas, Galápagos sharks, a variety of rays, white-tip sharks, black-tip sharks, hammerhead sharks, tons of fish species and sea turtles.
If there is a certain species you wanted to see in the Galápagos, check out my month-by-month guide breaking down what species you can see at specific times of the year.
Visitor Sites
Charles Darwin Research Station
Just a short walk from Puerto Ayora, you can find the Charles Darwin Research Station. As the operational center of the esteemed international non-profit Charles Darwin Foundation, this station plays a pivotal role in understanding and preserving the extraordinary biodiversity of the Galápagos Islands. Many cruises include a visit to this site, and it’s well worth your time. Here, you can gain a deeper understanding of the ongoing conservation efforts through informative displays and learn how the Darwin Station conducts vital research and offers technical assistance to fellow scientists and governmental agencies, particularly the Galápagos National Park. The station’s findings are published in esteemed scientific journals and reports, while also being showcased in educational programs for visitors, schools, and local communities.
Fausto Llerena Tortoise Center
One of the notable initiatives of the Charles Darwin Research Station, is the Fausto Llerena Tortoise Center, a joint program between the Galápagos National Park Directorate and the Charles Darwin Foundation. Originally established in 1965 to rescue the dwindling population of giant tortoises on Pinzón Island, this program expanded its scope to include other endangered populations, particularly the critically endangered Española tortoises, with a mere 14 individuals remaining at the time. Over the years, the Tortoise Center’s dedicated efforts have yielded remarkable results. Since 2008, over 4,000 young tortoises from eight different populations have been reintroduced to their respective islands, with nearly 1,500 returning to Española. A visit to the Tortoise Center allows you to witness the sight of various tortoises, ranging from adorable hatchlings and juveniles to fully-grown individuals.
Las Grietas
Also located a short distance from Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz in the Galápagos, Las Grietas is a really cool place waiting for you to explore it. Accessible without a guide, this swimming hole offers a really cool and unique experience. Due to the higher salt levels, there isn’t much marine life to see here, but this crevasse is still an awesome place to visit and cool off on a hot day. To reach Las Grietas, you can hop on a water taxi from the municipal pier, crossing the bay to the pier of Finch Bay Hotel. Down a trail, you’ll pass by lagoons, a pristine beach, cactuses and the residential zone before arriving at the cliffs of the main crevice. Take note of the contrast between the fresh water at the surface and the salty sea water at the bottom.
Cerro Dragon
Another cool stop on Santa Cruz Island in the Galápagos is Cerro Dragon (or Dragon Hill), a spot that offers an experience deeply intertwined with conservation efforts. With a direct association to the conservation program of the Charles Darwin Foundation and the Galápagos National Park, this unique site holds a significant place in the preservation of land iguanas.
In response to the devastating impact of feral dogs on land iguanas in northeast Santa Cruz, an emergency breeding and rearing program was initiated in 1975. As part of this initiative, 38 land iguanas were released on the nearby islet of Venecia, creating a semi-captive population thriving under natural conditions. To provide suitable nesting areas, soil was transported from Santa Cruz to Venecia, resulting in the successful establishment of an artificial nesting site. The population continues to grow, with periodic transfers of iguanas from Venecia to Dragon Hill. Cerro Dragon offers a remarkable opportunity to see these land iguanas in their natural habitat.
Bahia Ballena
Just at the base of Cerro Dragon is a cove of green sand called Bahia Ballena (or Whale Bay in English). Once a harbor and camp utilized by whalers to gather supplies, particularly giant tortoises for their long voyages, it’s pretty cool to walk the same footsteps as these early human residents. Near the beach, you may see some ceramic relics of those who used to live on the beach in the mid-1800s. The green sand is a result of the abundant olivine mineral crystals, the same that originate from volcanic materials. Beyond its unique coloring, Whale Bay is also a great place for wildlife enthusiasts. You may see Galápagos hawks, boobies, frigates, seals, sea lions, and marine iguanas.
Media Luna and Cerro Crocker
One of the crown jewels of Santa Cruz Island in the Galápagos is Media Luna and Cerro Crocker. The adventure begins in village of Bellavista, where the trail winds its way upwards. As you ascend, you will see Media Luna, the remnants of a crater that resembles a half moon. It lies within the Miconia Zone, an area named after the endemic shrub species found exclusively in the highlands of Santa Cruz and San Cristóbal. However, this fragile ecosystem faces significant threats from both fires and invasive plant species.
Continuing along the trail, you will head towards Puntuda, an ancient splatter cone that offers a glimpse into the island’s volcanic past. The summit of Cerro Crocker is the highest point on the island. From this vantage point, you can see the turquoise waters and the charming town of Puerto Ayora nestled in the distance. The entire round trip hike is about 8.5 miles (or 13.6 km) so make sure to bring plenty of water as the Galápagos can get HOT.
Los Gemelos
Los Gemelos, or Twin Craters, are some of the most recognizable geological marvels on Santa Cruz. These sinkholes were formed by the collapse of massive magma chambers, leaving behind expansive craters. Located along the road from Puerto Ayora to Baltra, these pit craters offer an incredible sight as you walk along their rims. You can also venture into the Scalesia forest, a sanctuary of verdant beauty on your way to the larger crater. On your way to the craters, you may see vermilion flycatchers, short-eared owls, the Galápagos Dove, and a myriad of finch species. The towering Scalesia trees reach heights of up to 65 feet and dominate the canopy. Thanks to dedicated conservation efforts, the forest surrounding Los Gemelos has flourished, becoming one of the largest in the islands.
Best Beaches
Tortuga Bay
Tortuga Bay is a beautiful beach where black sea turtles go to lay their eggs (hence the name). The trail to Tortuga Bay starts from the main street of Puerto Ayora. Along your scenic walk, expect to see an array of lands birds that inhabit the environment. As you reach the shore, there are two beaches for your to explore. The first is called Playa Brava and is a long stretch of sandy coastline that opens up to the vast ocean, offering a captivating view (obviously not uncommon in the Galápagos). But please note that the strong undercurrents don’t make it suitable for swimming so it’s actually prohibited. For a more serene experience, head to the second beach, Playa Mansa. Here, the tranquil waters will allow you to go for a swim or simply bask in the sun.
As of 2023, you can take a boat or water taxi to Tortuga Bay from Puerto Ayora. It might be a more viable option if you don’t want to walk an hour in that equator heat. To find the service just head to the port and you’ll see multiple signs offering boat rides to Tortuga Bay.
Garrapatero Beach
Located northeast of Puerto Ayora, Garrapatero Beach is a tranquil and popular beach for visitors. To reach Garrapatero Beach, you will either need to take a taxi or rent a bike for the day. The beach is about 12 miles (19 km) away from Puerto Ayora. It’s pretty easy to call a taxi from the main town. When I visited, the round trip ride cost $40. I asked the driver to pick me up at 4pm and he didn’t collect payment until I was dropped back off at my hotel safe and sound.
To get to the beach from the parking lot, you will walk for about 15 minutes down a trail that leads through an awesome cactus forest. You will also pass some Manchineel trees — also known as one of the world’s most poisonous plant species. Once you get to the beach, don’t miss seeing the nearby lagoon where you can see various bird species and sometimes even flamingos!
Playa de Los Perros
Playa de Los Perros, a relatively short beach measuring only 246 feet (75 meters) in length, offers some incredible encounters with the marine ecosystem of Academy Bay’s western outer point. Although it’s not a beach where you can swim, the appeal of this beach is that you have the opportunity to see some reef sharks, iguanas and blue-footed boobies. After a short hike from the beach, you will reach a pool full of white tip sharks where you can safely watch them explore their natural habitat. Just know that the trail is a bit rough, yet short. But the view at the end is definitely worth it.
Las Bachas
Las Bachas is located on the northern side of the island by Isla Baltra (where the airport is located). This white sand beach unsurprisingly boasts some gorgeous turquoise waters, and is a place where you can see more of the natural wonders of the archipelago. As a significant nesting site for sea turtles, Las Bachas plays a crucial role in the conservation of these humble creatures. From January to June, you can even see the delicate tracks left behind by nesting turtles in the early morning hours. Look for markings by the Galápagos National Park indicating protected areas to ensure the turtles’ undisturbed habitat.
Interesting bit of knowledge: The name Las Bachas means “The Barges” in English and came to be after some locals mispronounced “barges”. The name originates from the remnants of two ships abandoned by the U.S. Navy after World War II. Today, these rusted barge sides subtly emerge from beneath the sands and you can still see them depending on the tide.
Playa de Los Alemanes
Playa de Los Alemanes is actually on the way to Las Grietas is great for an array of activities. Here, you can snorkel, surf, swim, paddle board or simply just lay out in the sun. From Puerto Ayora, you can take a water taxi to the beach. You will be dropped off near a marked trail and after following the trail — and Voila! You have reached Palay de Los Alemanes. This beach is rarely crowded and is an excellent site for bird watchers. There are no shady areas to protect you from the brutal sun so be prepared.
Best Dining
Midori Sushi
Just so you know there are TWO Midori Sushis in the Galapagos Islands — one on San Cristóbal and one on Santa Cruz. Of all the sushi I tried on the Islands, Midori was my favorite. I absolutely love sushi so I frequented Midori quite a lot. Although a little more pricey than other food options, I would still try Midori at least once while you’re on the island if you’re a fellow sushi lover.
Fish Market
Probably the most memorable dining highlight for me during my entire time in the Galápagos Islands was eating at the local fish market. Located off Charles Binford in Santa Cruz, you’ll find the vibrant and bustling fish market. Just a walk down the street will hit every one of your senses. One of the best parts of staying on an island is the daily fresh fish that are caught in the morning and cooked up in the afternoon. The seafood here is as diverse as it is delicious (and also quite affordable!). I ordered a fresh caught full lobster with rice, salad, and plantains, all for $20 at one of the restaurants and, not to be dramatic, but it was life changing. The fish market is definitely something to experience during your time on Santa Cruz.
The Rock
The Rock is a popular place near the port with a great selection of drinks and food. There is a very cool wood carved bar that offers their full selection of drinks and everything here is pretty reasonably priced. For the options, location and prices, the Rock is a great place to stop for lunch, dinner or drinks.
Santa Cruz Brewery
Santa Cruz Brewery is a hot spot for good vibes and good beer. The beer is brewed locally on Santa Cruz in order to limit imported beer which minimizes the environmental impact on the island. The beer was absolutely fantastic and there are plenty of delicious food options like burgers, pastas, salads, sandwiches and more.
As tourism grows in the Galápagos Islands, the number of restaurants and food options to continue to grow. I recommend just walking around Puerto Ayora, Bellavista, or Santa Rosa (just wherever you find yourself!) and browse the different menus of places that pique your interest. I have found some of my favorite restaurants in the world by purposely getting lost on random streets and doing this.
Final Tips and Advice
Of all the islands you can visit, Santa Cruz in the Galápagos is definitely the most touristy — but that isn’t a bad thing! There is plenty to do and see when you visit Santa Cruz and it has the biggest selection of bars, restaurants, breweries, accomodations, shops, parlors and more. Of course, there is also a vast array of endemic species in the town and across the island you won’t see anywhere else in the world. I loved my time on Santa Cruz and it’s an unforgettable experience you’ll never forget!
About the Author: I’m Alayna, originally from Orange County, California and now traveling the globe. After being bitten by the travel bug in 2021 during my first trip to Greece, I decided to completely alter the course of my life. For so long, I was under the belief that I had to go to college, get a good job, earn enough money, save up for practical things like a house and car, and then maybe travel if I found the time. Well, taking a spontaneous trip on my own terms made me realize there is no right way and wrong way to live life, and I am choosing to do something with mine I only thought was possible in my dreams: travel the world. It is my hope that through my stories I can inspire more people to take that same, life-changing trip to the place of their dreams!
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