Chances are Guatemala’s Acatenango Volcano is on many adventures’ bucket lists. And why wouldn’t it be? On this hike, you are granted the rare opportunity to view awe inspiring eruptions from the nearby Volcán de Fuego that will leave you speechless. While this hike proved to be one of the most challenging feats I have ever done mentally and physically, it was also one of the most incredible experiences of my life. Here is my story of the Acatenango Volcano hike, as well as advice and tips to help you avoid some of the mistakes I made on my own voyage up the volcano.
Where to Begin…
Well how about at the beginning? I woke up the morning of the hike frankly feeling like crap. I had a headache, scratchy throat, and to top it all off, I couldn’t breathe through my nose. All ingredients necessary for participating in one of the most challenging hikes ever (please note the sarcasm)…
The main reason I found myself in Guatemala was because my boyfriend had always wanted to do the Acatenango Volcano hike. He purposely made Antigua a stop on our itinerary after he was unable to partake in the hike when he was traveling in Guatemala in 2019 with a friend. Due to his friend’s knee injury, they wisely decided against the two day hike, so he vowed to return one day to complete it. I guess that means I earned the honor of accompanying him 8.5 miles (13.8km) to the top of the dormant volcano (hooray for me!).
We booked our hike the day before our departure to the volcano, but were unable to postpone or change our reservations when we arrived the morning of due to a 24 hour cancellation policy. That meant I was doing the hike no matter how I was feeling. No backing out now!
Acatenango Volcano Hike Day 1
We picked up our rental gear, water, food and backpacks and headed to the vans that would drive us an hour to the Mayan Village of Soledad, where the Acatenango trailhead is located. There, we met our guides, I bought a gatorade from some of the locals selling supplies, and we paid a porter to carry our heavy backpack that was filled with our winter gear and almost 10 liters of water. Then it was onward to base camp.
The first part of the hike is considered the most difficult. The terrain is loose, the incline steep, and there is not much to look as opposed to later in the hike. Even though I was feeling sick, I forced myself to go step by step and kept telling myself everything would be worth it once we reached the top. We were luckily granted breaks every 25 minutes or so to rest and catch our breaths. The views eventually started to change, from conventional farmland, to Jurassic-like jungles, and finally to high wooded forests. The higher we climbed, the colder it got and the more difficult it was to breathe due to the altitude.
Several hours of trekking, slipping on loose rocks, constantly wondering why I agreed to do this, and a lot of heavy panting later, we finally reached base camp. More than four hours of climbing uphill in altitude and we had made it to our destination. Once we reached base camp, El Fuego erupted to welcome our arrival. It made me completely forget about all the pain and exhaustion I endured to get here. Now that I was at base camp, I realized the entire trek wasn’t nearly as bad as I originally anticipated. Don’t get me wrong, it was far from easy, but it was something I believed I could do again one day in the future… If I really wanted to.
From base camp, we were given the option to hike 4 – 5 more hours to El Fuego to see it erupt up close, hike another hour to the summit of Acatenango to watch the sunset above the clouds, or remain at base camp and sip on hot chocolate. With my head cold, I knew I wouldn’t survive another 4 hour hike, but figured hiking another hour to the summit was completely doable. I had heard the sunset was absolutely breathtaking from this vantage point and something not to miss. I mean, I had come this far already and after years of competitive running and even completing a marathon, I felt unstoppable!
The Summit Hike
That mentality lasted about five minutes into the trek. This hike was much steeper than the hike to base camp, the terrain was extremely slippery, I was struggling for each breath as the altitude increased, and the fatigue was really starting to weigh on me mentally and physically. Not to mention it was FREEZING as the sun was setting. I fell to the very back of the group and the poor hiking guide had to wait for me at almost every corner while the rest of the hikers forged on towards the summit.
As discouraging as this might seem, I kept myself going with visions of a once in a lifetime view. I knew that I was never going to experience something like this again and continued to place one painful step in front of another. Even as I slid backwards on the unstable rocks beneath my worthless sneakers with ZERO traction, I pushed myself to the top of that damn volcano. An hour and a half later, I finally managed to pull my exhausted body to the top of Acatenango.
I broke down crying when I reached the top. Mainly out of pure exhaustion, but also from the overwhelming feeling of accomplishment. Even my boyfriend, who has hiked all over the world in higher altitudes said this was the most intense hike he’s ever done. Once I wiped my eyes and looked around me, I realized what everyone was talking about when they said the summit hike was completely worth all the effort. We were floating above the clouds as the fainting sun began its descent behind them. Next to us, El Fuego continued to spew rocks and ash into the atmosphere. Seeing a sunset that no words can describe while an active volcano is erupting right next to you is, I must say, an out of this world experience.
Acatenango and El Fuego by Night
We stayed at the top of the summit until the sun disappeared behind the soaring clouds. Then turned on our headlamps and began to make our way back down towards base camp. I’m not going to lie, hiking down in the dark, slipping on the loose gravely rocks was, again, not the easiest thing I’ve ever done. I’m also ashamed to admit that I was getting so fatigued coming down, that every time I fell on the loose terrain, I found it harder to get up and… you guessed it, started crying again.
I started panicking thinking I’d never make it back down the volcano, it was freezing cold, I was exhausted, sick and couldn’t breathe with the altitude and my head cold. I classically overthought the whole situation, but luckily my boyfriend didn’t leave my side and talked me through everything. And, thanks to the full moon, it wasn’t completely pitch black. Our hiking guide (definitely an angel sent from heaven) helped me for a few hundred meters by grabbing my arm and balancing me so I stopped falling until we were on more even ground again.
Once we finally made it back to base camp, I went straight to our cabin to lie down. I was so exhausted I just wanted to rest for a while. After my boyfriend told the rest of the group about our sunset summit excursion (and my near death experience on the way up), he came and joined me inside. That was when we saw El Fuego erupt for the first time at night.
You could totally see the lava explode into the night sky. During the day, the eruptions looked to be just smoke and ash, but once the sun went down, lava illuminated the crater as it erupted and cascaded down the volcano. It was one of the most surreal sights I’ve ever seen. I was witnessing something I’ve only seen in movies…or on National Geographic.
Now, sleeping in freezing temperatures next to an active volcano in high altitude isn’t going to provide you with the best sleep of your life. Fortunately, the tour company equipped us with cabins, which made it “slightly” more comfortable than sleeping in tents. It was still so cold that I had to sleep in all five of my layers and hat and then buried myself deep in my sleeping bag and under my blanket. El Fuego continued to explode every 15 to 30 minutes throughout the night, with some eruptions so loud, they shook the cabin we were in.
Acatenango Volcano Hike Day 2
There was absolutely no chance I was going to wake up at 4am to hike back up to the summit for sunrise, so my boyfriend and I agreed to wake up around 5:30am to see the sunrise from base camp. Despite still feeling miserable and exhausted, the sunrise was beautiful and definitely worth the early wake up call.
After breakfast, we packed up our stuff and began to head back down to the base of Acatenango around 7:30am. The descent was so much easier than the climb up the volcano. Although I definitely slipped a few times on the trek down, the entire hike back to Soledad only took 2 1/2 hours (compared to the more than 4 hours it took to hike up!).
We made it to Soledad around 11am and were back in Antigua by 12pm. Although the entire two day journey was one of the hardest things I’ve ever done mentally and physically, it is definitely one of the feats I will look back on and remember forever. Reminiscing on it all, I am so glad I forced myself up the entire way, but it is for sure something I’ll never do again. However, if you’re having ANY doubts about your own Acatenango volcano hike, then trust me, if I was able to complete this hike under duress (sick and woefully unprepared) then you 100% can conquer it too!
Acatenango Tips
There were many things I learned on my trek and others I wish I had known on my Acatenango Volcano hike. Here is some (in my humble opinion) extremely helpful advice to help you on your Acatenango journey:
Hire a Porter
As I mentioned earlier, my boyfriend and I paid a porter to carry our heavy bag to the summit. The tour guides required each person to bring 1 liter of water for cooking, in addition to the water you want to drink throughout the hike. My boyfriend also drinks a tooooooon of water so we had extra bottles. With our winter gear and almost 10 liters of water, our bag weighed more than 12 kilos (that’s more than 25 lbs!). While it might seem completely doable to carry a bag of this size for some of you toughies out there, easy way out and paid $25.00 USD for a porter.
Trust me, as you trek to higher altitudes and the fatigue begins to weigh on you, you’ll be thanking yourself you dished out a little extra for a porter. If you are going to take just one piece of advice from this column, let it be this one. As we were hiking up, we kept saying how thankful we were for hiring a porter and just how much harder the hike would be if we had to carry our own heavy bag. We even agreed that if we had to carry our own backpack, we wouldn’t have had enough energy to make it to the summit!
To be honest, in the beginning, I felt a little bad we were having a little older man carry our heavy bag PLUS his own backpack. That was until he kicked our asses all the way to base camp. Seriously this man was always ahead of us, barely breaking a sweat, and breathing completely normal. A true super hero. It’s also nice to note the porters are hired from the local community and all the money goes to help the porter and their families.
To hire a porter, you can either ask the company you book with if they can reserve you one in advance, or there are usually porters waiting at the Acatenango trailhead you can talk to and hire.
Bring the Right Shoes
Okay I was quite unprepared on this front. We were under the impression that we could rent shoes for our hike. And you can! However, the employee advised against this and said our non-traction sneakers would actually be better. Too many times she’s seen people rent shoes and come away with nasty blisters and other foot problems because the shoe just wasn’t right for them. She recommended we use the trekking poles and keep our current shoes and we’d be fine.
While we technically were “fine”, I still wish I had better shoes (especially when I was sliding backwards on that summit hike!). I highly recommend bringing any shoes with traction, in addition to the trekking poles. Hiking boots that are broken in are definitely the best, but other workout or hiking shoes that have good traction will also benefit you. DO NOT wear hiking sandals or any other kind of open toed shoes. I know this seems like a no brainer but I have read about some people doing this and instantly regretting it. Not only is it freezing at the top, but there are a ton of loose rocks that will annoy the crap out of you when they constantly find their way in your shoes.
Don’t Skip Out on the Layers
Remember when I mentioned it was freezing up there, well it was FREEZING up there. Temperatures at night can get as low as -15°C (5°F). As someone who is always cold, even I could have benefited from more layers. I wore five top layers and a winter jacket, two bottom layers, three pairs of socks, gloves, a hat, a buff (for my face), and a scarf. Especially at the summit where there is no protection and just open, freezing wind, you’ll need the extra layers.
You can either bring your own layers, if you wish, but some companies you book with will provide them for you. We booked with Wicho & Charlie’s (can’t recommend them enough), and they equipped our hiking group with more than enough winter gear. When you are grabbing your gear and you are questioning whether or not to bring that extra sweater, do it. You’ll thank yourself when you’re at the top of the summit, or shivering in your sleeping bag.
Make Sure to Pack Your Medicine
Even if you’re feeling 110% healthy the day of your hike and like you could conquer the world, I still recommend packing some medicine. Although you might be fine, it’s better to be safe than sorry if you find yourself sick on the trail. I had some light headaches throughout the hike and didn’t think to bring any medicine with me. Luckily our guides came well prepared and gave me headache pills that alleviated much of my discomfort. If you know you are prone to illnesses such as migraines, stomach aches, joint pain, etc., it would be wise to pack some appropriate medication.
While some can handle it better than others, do not underestimate the potential power of altitude sickness. Again, our guides luckily came prepared with all kinds of medicine including altitude sickness pills, but not every company is going to be able to provide this kind of medicine. I would suggest stocking up on some Acetazolamide medication prior to your hike just to be safe.
Pace Yourself
Just remember: everyone is going to go at their own speed, there is no race to the top, and no winner. I would not recommend giving it your all in the first third of the hike and then slowly running out of energy before you make it to base camp. Depending on who you book with, your guides will be very understanding and helpful the entire way up, and will allow you more breaks if you really need them.
Try to enjoy the climb, scenery and (I know cliché!) journey as much as you can on your hike. I mean you’re hiking a freaking volcano for crying out loud! Not many people can say the same. Pace yourself and appreciate your surroundings to the best of your ability.
Coming Down is Going to be Hard on the Knees
I underestimated this part too. My boyfriend doesn’t have the best knees after a soccer injury some years ago and towards the end of the hike down to Soledad, he was REALLY feeling it. I like to think I have pretty strong knees, I mean I spent seven years of my life running long distance competitively, up and down hills, and have never had an issue with my knees. But mine were definitely feeling the strain by the time we reached the trailhead.
The best way to prevent this is by (again!) having the right shoes, using trekking poles, and perhaps knee braces if you know you are prone to knee issues. Also, relax on the way down. As mentioned before, this is NOT a competition going up or going down.
Take it Easy the Day Before
Try not to do any strenuous activity the day before the hike. On the Acatenango Volcano hike, you are going to burn so many calories and use so much energy, you are going to want to conserve as much as you can of it the day before. That means taking it easy and resting as much as possible. When my boyfriend told an employee at the tour company that he was planning on going to gym the day before our Acatenango hike, the employee looked at him like he was insane (he didn’t end up going of course).
That also means no coffee, caffeine, or alcohol the day before, as all this will dehydrate you. The employee recommended we each drink FOUR liters of water when we told her we had just come from a coffee house (oops). The night before the volcano hike, we decided to carbo-load, just as I used to do in my competitive running days. We went to a little Italian restaurant in Antigua and had our fill of pasta to help maximize our energy for the two day hike.
What Company to Use
We booked with Wicho & Charlie’s and we seriously can’t recommend them enough! I read other blogs that discussed the negatives of their Acatenango volcano tours, such as the tour running out of food (this would be a HUGE bummer), not being told they would have to carry their own backpack AND tents, being crammed in a tent like sardines, etc. There isn’t one negative thing I can say about Wicho & Charlie’s. Here’s why you should book with them:
You Get to Sleep in Cabins Instead of Tents
Rather than tents, the company provides cabins to sleep in. These cabins are wooden platforms with triangle shaped tin roofs. Inside are cot like mats with sleeping bags, definitely not perfect, but slightly more comfortable than sleeping in pop up tents. The mats, sleeping bags, pillows, and extra blankets are already inside the cabin once you get there so no need to worry about trekking up with those extra supplies! The cabins also offer a little more protection from the freezing temperatures and frequent nearby eruptions.
They Have Excellent Food
As I mentioned, many blogs I read when prepping for my own Acatenango Volcano hike complained about the food on their tour, or lack thereof. With Wicho & Charlie’s, you are guaranteed some tasty food. And all their meals are plant-based and so delicious! We were provided breakfast in the morning (nothing too fancy: bread with jam and Nutella, bananas, coffee and tea), make-your-own trail mix bags to snack on throughout the hike, mashed potatoes, “meat”balls, and gravy for lunch, lentil and tomato curry with rice for dinner, and in the morning we had breakfast burritos. Not to mention we were also given hot chocolate, coffee and tea that the guides made themselves.
Our Guides Were Amazing
From the office workers to the hiking guides, every employee at Wicho & Charlie’s was super friendly. The employee we booked with gave us the best advice and answered our many questions the day before the hike. The guides were incredibly helpful and entertaining from beginning to end. Remember when I was crawling down from the summit, crying? Well, I literally would not have made it down if it weren’t for the amazing guide who held on to my arm to keep me from sliding all the way down the volcano. Seriously an angel sent from Heaven. Some of the guides even offered to carry hikers’ backpacks to make their treks easier.
They Give Back to the Community!
When you book your volcano hike with Wicho & Charlie’s the company gives to the local community in various ways. They donate salary payments to workers of Santuario Vida Animal, a shelter that takes care of hundreds of cats and dogs, in addition to providing the shelter with thousands of pounds of food. Also, for every positive review they receive on Google, they donate a few extra dollars to the local community. So if you book with them and you enjoyed the trip as much as we did, make sure you take the time to write them a good review!
Wicho & Charlie’s Pricing
There are a few different trekking packages you can buy:
We booked pretty last minute, which meant our lodging options were limited to the more pricey private cabins. This actually worked out better and was worth the extra cost not to share accommodations with seven other people. If you are planning on bringing your own food and gear, you may not need the All Inclusive Package. However, the convenience factor alone might be worth it.
All together my boyfriend and I each paid about $125 for the entire two-day excursion. While there are many different things you could cut to save money, like bringing some of your own gear or carrying your own bag during our volcano hike, we agreed to spend as much as we wanted for convenience and comfort. This is one of the most challenging hikes in the world, and with my sickness, I was willing to pay even more to make this hike as painless* as possible.
*it was still painful
When to Hike Acatenango Volcano
We were extremely lucky when we did our Acatenango Volcano hike. The weather was super clear, with maybe a little cloud coverage that disappeared within an hour or two. We booked our hike in mid January, which is definitely one of the coldest times to go, but also the driest. May to October is considered the wet season, so there is a greater chance you’ll experience rain if you book during this time.
I would recommend completing your volcano hike in the drier months of November through April. Since weather is unpredictable, check the forecasts right up to the day of departure.
What to Pack
Toilet Paper
There are no bathrooms whatsoever on this hike, so you know what that means… When nature calls, she really calls. Make sure you bring your own roll of toilet paper to take care of business.
P.S. It is not easy using nature as your bathroom in freezing temperatures! Eat and drink accordingly!
Sunscreen
Although it might be cold at base camp and the summit, it’s never a good idea to underestimate the sun. Remember your sunscreen and reapply throughout your hike.
Extra Layers
If you’re anything like me, it’s a good idea to pack extra layers. You know yourself best, so wear and bring whatever is going to make you feel the most comfortable.
Plenty of Food and Water
If you tend to need more food, it would be wise to pack some extra snacks. It also depends on the company you book with, cause remember some don’t provide you with the best meal options. Be sure to pack plenty of food with you so you don’t feel like you’re starving half way through your hike. Same goes for water. Don’t skip out on the water just because it weighs down your bag (especially when you can hire someone to carry it for you!) and run the risk of getting dehydrated. To prevent altitude sickness it is so important you remain hydrated throughout the hike.
Trekking Poles
Whether you decide to bring your own, or rent them with your chosen company or at the trailhead, trekking poles were one of the best things we had on our hike. Remember, there is a lot of loose terrain on this hike and the poles will really help in keeping your balance. Especially if you plan to do El Fuego or the summit hike, I almost want to say these poles are a necessity unless you’re a pro!
Headlamp
You can also potentially rent one from your chosen company or bring your own. You can use a flashlight instead if you want, but it is much harder to see where you’re going in the dark while carrying two trekking poles, in addition to a flashlight. Headlamps are best if you plan on hiking El Fuego or the summit. They are also really helpful at night when getting around basecamp or going to the bathroom.
Final Acatenango Volcano Hike Thoughts
While I will NEVER do this hike again, I do not regret my decision to tough it out and complete it at all. This was hands down one of the most incredible experiences of my life and I got to share it with someone who means the world to me. I also booked with an awesome company that made the journey just that much better.
If you are an adventure seeker then you must add the Acatenango Volcano hike to your travel list. Will it be hard? Well, it won’t be easy. But will it be worth it? Absolutely. 100%. Definitely.
About the Author: I’m Alayna, originally from Orange County, California and now traveling the globe. After being bitten by the travel bug in 2021 during my first trip to Greece, I decided to completely alter the course of my life. For so long, I was under the belief that I had to go to college, get a good job, earn enough money, save up for practical things like a house and car, and then maybe travel if I found the time. Well, taking a spontaneous trip on my own terms made me realize there is no right way and wrong way to live life, and I am choosing to do something with mine I only thought was possible in my dreams: travel the world. It is my hope that through my stories I can inspire more people to take that same, life-changing trip to the place of their dreams!
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